General FAQ


Can I purchase a boat directly from Stingray?
We do not sell Stingrays directly from our manufacturing facility. To purchase a Stingray, contact one of our authorized Stingray dealers. The nearest Stingray dealer can be found by using our online Dealer Locator.
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Where can I buy parts and accessories for my Stingray?
All parts and accessories must be purchased through an authorized Stingray dealer. The nearest Stingray dealer can be found by using our online Dealer Locator.
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Where can I find decals for my boat?
Find part numbers and pictures for Stingray decals on the
Stingray Decals page. A My Stingray username and password is required to access this information.
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Where can I find gelcoat to repair my boat?
Refer to the
Gelcoat Color Codes page to find information for ordering gelcoat for your boat from Spectrum Color. A My Stingray username and password is required to access this information.
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Where can I find performance data?
Performance data is available from our Performance Comparison page, which contains over 1900 different boat models for comparison. As more tests are performed, additional data will be added to our database. Links to performance options also are available from each model page.
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Where can I find more information about your five year protection plan?
Our warranty information page contains information about our five year protection plan, as well as warranties for other products used in the manufacturing of Stingray boats. Contact your local authorized Stingray dealer if you have additional questions about the five year protection plan. The nearest Stingray dealer can be found by using our online Dealer Locator.
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Where is my Boat Serial # and what do the numbers and letters represent?
Location of your Stingray Serial #
The serial number on your Stingray Boat is located on the right (starboard) side of the transom approximately 2" below the rub-rail molding.

HIN Identification Code
The first three characters in every HIN are a Manufacturer Identification Code such as PNY. The only way to obtain a Manufacturer Identification Code is from the Coast Guard.

Hull Serial Numbers
Characters four through eight are the hull serial number which must consist of letters of the English alphabet, Arabic numerals, or both, except the letters "I", "O" or "Q" (because of their similarity to the numbers "0" and "1"). The boat manufacturer chooses a boat's hull serial number.

The Date of Certification
The ninth and tenth characters in each Hull Identification Number indicate the month and year of the date of certification. In all other cases characters nine and ten must indicate the date of manufacture, which can be no earlier than the date construction or assembly began and no later than the date the boat leaves the place of manufacture or assembly or is imported into the United States for the purposes of sale.

Character nine, the month of certification, must be indicated using letters of the English alphabet starting with January as "A" and ending with December as "L":
A = JANUARY
B = FEBRUARY
C = MARCH
D = APRIL
E = MAY
F = JUNE
G = JULY
H = AUGUST
I = SEPTEMBER
J = OCTOBER
K = NOVEMBER
L = DECEMBER

A boat is considered certified to comply with safety standards in effect on the first day of the month shown in the ninth character of the HIN. Character ten is the last digit of the year of certification (or manufacture). This is a typical Manufacturer Identification Code, hull serial number and date of certification of July 1990, the first 10 characters in a HIN: PNY2AB41G0.

Model Year
Characters 11 and 12 are the model year of the boat and must be indicated using Arabic numerals. Reports to the Coast Guard indicate that individuals, some of them dealers, are altering the last two characters in the Hull Identification Number to make it appear that a boat is newer. Alteration of a Hull Identification Number without the specific written permission of the Commandant, U.S. Coast Guard is specifically prohibited by Federal statutes and Coast Guard regulations. Persons convicted of the alteration of a Hull Identification Number are liable for civil penalties.

Determination of model year is left to the boat manufacturer.

Permanency
Each Hull Identification Number must be carved, burned, stamped, embossed, molded, bonded, or otherwise permanently affixed to the boat so that alteration, removal, or replacement would be obvious.

Minimum Size
The characters in each Hull Identification Number must be no less than one-quarter inch in height.

Occasionally companies are purchased and renamed. A Corporation is a legal entity that does not cease functioning with a change in its ownership. Therefore, it is responsible for its past production and the Coast Guard will not issue a new Manufacturer Identification Code. On the other hand, if a corporation goes out of business and someone merely "buys" its name and manufacturing assets, then a new business is created. The new business is not obligated to take responsibility for the past production of the defunct corporation, and we will issue a new Manufacturer Identification Code.

Builders who change their company names or relocate to new addresses are required to report such changes to the Coast Guard (see 33 CFR 181.33(b)).
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Where can I find information about older Stingray models?
At the present time, model information is available for 1998 models through current year models. Information about older models can be found on our Previous Model Year Info page. You can also find an archive of ALL of our catalogs on this page. These pages provide some information on other models.
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Where can I find a standard price list?
To obtain pricing, use our online Interactive Pricing feature. An MSRP sheet is generated that displays a list of standards and pricing for each option that is selected.
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Can I get an owner's manual for an older Stingray model?
Owner's manuals are not model specific. The Owner's Manual is available online in My Stingray for registered Stingray Owners. You can download a PDF version of the Owner's Manual for printing here. The nearest Stingray dealer can be found by using our Dealer Locator.
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Where can I find information about the trailer that came with my boat?
Stingray does not supply trailers with boats. Each dealer is responsible for sourcing trailers to put under the boats they purchase from Stingray. To find information about your trailer, contact your dealer or contact the manufacturer of the trailer.
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What is the difference between 'S' and 'X' model Stingrays?
Most Stingray models offer two versions, such as the 190RS and the 190RX. The difference between the boats is the interior layout. Use our comparison chart to see the differences between the two layouts.
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How does the auto/manual bilge pump work?
FOR 500 GPH AUTO/MANUAL BILGE PUMPS (2006 MODELS AND OLDER):
There is a float switch built into the auto/manual bilge pump. When the water level in the bilge reaches the height of the switch, it is activated and the pump turns on. When the water level drops, the float switch results in the pump automatically shutting off. If the pump does not appear to be working properly, the two amp fuse between the battery and the pump could be blown.

To override the auto feature of the bilge pump, use the manual switch found on the dash. If you use the manual switch to turn the pump on, you must also use the manual switch to turn the pump off.
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My bilge pump turns on every 2 1/2 minutes. Is this normal?
This is normal for all 2007 and newer models.

The Rule 1100 GPH fully automatic bilge pumps feature computerized operation; they do not require a float switch. The pump comes on every 2 1/2 minutes for one second to check for water. If resistance is encountered, the pump will stay on until resistance is no longer found. If no resistance is found, the pump shuts off and reverts to its 2 1/2 minute cycle time. The pump can be run manually from the switch on the dash. The Rule 1100 pumps more than twice as much water as the older 500GPH pumps.
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Can you recommend a troll motor shaft length for the Fish and Ski boat?
For the Fish and Ski boat (the 190FX or 195FX), we recommend a troll motor shaft length of at least 50.
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I would like to mount a digital depth gauge with a through hull transducer. Can you recommend a good place to mount the transducer?
Detailed instructions for proper transducer installation are provided in the Fishing Resources section of the Humminbird web site. Follow the Installation Procedure link and read through the documentation provided.
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How do I clean and care for my Sunbrella® Canvas?

The information below was reprinted from Sunbrella® literature.

Some of the most frequently asked questions about Sunbrella® fabrics concern care and cleaning. The good news is that Sunbrella® is designed to be easy to maintain. By following a few simple care and cleaning steps, the fabric will maintain its good looks for many years.

Important Background
Sunbrella® fabrics are made from 100 percent solution-dyed acrylic yarns. Solution-dying is the process of adding color to acrylic fibers during manufacturing while they are in a liquid state. This characteristic of Sunbrella® fabrics is the key to locking in color, easy cleaning and long life.

Because Sunbrella® fabrics are woven, they are also highly breathable, which is why they dry quickly with only air exposure. It's also important to know that Sunbrella® fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish requires replenishment after vigorous cleaning.

Sunbrella® fabrics will not support the growth of mildew, but dirt on the fabric can lead to mildew growth, which makes regular cleanings important. No set timetable exists for when fabric should be cleaned, and the local environment has a great deal to do with determining cleaning frequency. Cleaning is required less frequently in a dry environment than in a humid one with heavy foliage.

Sunbrella® awning and marine fabrics carry a five-year limited warranty and Sunbrella® furniture fabrics are warranted for three years. With proper care and cleaning, you can expect excellent service from Sunbrella® fabrics far beyond warranty periods.

Cleaning
One of the best ways to keep Sunbrella® fabrics looking good and to delay the need for deep or vigorous cleanings is to hose fabrics off on a monthly basis with clear water. This practice will help prevent dirt from becoming deeply imbedded in the fabric and eliminate the need for more frequent vigorous cleanings. In most environments, a thorough cleaning will be needed every two to three years.

When it's time for a thorough cleaning, Sunbrella® fabrics can be cleaned while still on an awning frame or a boat or, size permitting, they can be removed for cleaning in a washing machine.

When cleaning Sunbrella® fabrics, it is important to observe the following:

  • Always use a natural soap. Never detergent.
  • Water should be cold to lukewarm. Never more than 100 degrees.
  • Air dry only. Never apply heat to Sunbrella® fabrics.

If you are cleaning Sunbrella® while still on a frame or on a boat, follow these simple steps:

  • Brush off loose dirt.
  • Hose down.
  • Prepare a cleaning mixture of water and mild, natural soap (no detergents).
  • Use a soft bristle brush to clean.
  • Allow soap to soak in.
  • Rinse thoroughly.
  • Air dry.

If stubborn stains persist, you can use a diluted chlorine bleach/soap mixture for spot cleaning of mildew, roof run-off and other similar stains.

Prepare a special cleaning mixture:

  • Four ounces (half cup) of chlorine bleach.
  • Two ounces (one-fourth cup) of natural soap.
  • One gallon of water.
  • Clean with soft bristle brush.
  • Allow mixture to soak for up to 20 minutes.
  • Rinse thoroughly.
  • Air dry.
  • Repeat if necessary.

If an awning or boat cover is suitable in size for a washing machine, these steps should be followed:

  • Use only natural soaps. No detergent.
  • Wash and rinse in cold water.
  • Air dry. Never put Sunbrella® fabrics in your dryer

Re-treating the Fabric
As part of the finishing process, Sunbrella® fabrics are treated with a fluorocarbon finish, which enhances water repellency. This finish is designed to last for several years, but must be replenished after a thorough cleaning. Based on test results, Glen Raven recommends 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™ as the preferred re-treatment product for Sunbrella® fabrics. Fabrics should be retreated after thorough cleaning or after five years of use. Check with your local Sunbrella® dealer or distributor for more information.

Applying 303 High Tech Fabric Guard™
303 should be applied to Sunbrella® fabrics after each thorough cleaning, which typically removes the original fluorocarbon finish and reduces the fabric's water resistance. After cleaning the fabric, allow it to air dry completely and then apply 303 in a thin, even coat. After allowing the first coat of 303 to air dry, apply a second thin, even coating of 303. Two light coatings are more effective in restoring fabric water resistance than a single heavy coating. The 15-ounce aerosol provides coverage of up to 50 square feet of lightweight fabric.

Professional Cleaners
You may have access to professional cleaning firms that service awnings. In evaluating the services of a professional firm, you should inquire about a firm's experience in working with Sunbrella® fabrics and knowledge of cleaning and retreatment requirements.
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How can I better secure my sundeck cover while trailering my boat? Can I add the center latch to my boat like the one used on newer models?
If your boat has hold-downs on each side of the sundeck, they should keep the hatch down if they are working properly and the deck was closed securely. However, if the side latches are out of adjustment or the deck is not fully closed, the sun deck may pop up at higher cruising speeds or while trailering your boat. To help improve this situation, the hold-down system for all sun deck models was changed starting with 2000 model year boats. The new latch system was moved to the center of the sundeck and has a more positive latching action. You can easily add the new system to your current boat with basic hand tools and a few screws.

The part numbers required to add the new latch assembly to your boat:
Latch bracket - 219.0036
Latch & striker - 222.3032
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I have a slow leak when my boat is in the water that I cannot visually see. Do you have any suggestions?
If water enters the bilge only when the motor is running, the problem is usually with the motor. Warranty issues concerning the motor are covered by the engine manufacturer. You can run your motor while the boat is in the water or on a flushing attachment and usually find most engine leaks. If you attempt this procedure, BE VERY CAREFUL WITH THE ENGINE BELTS - they can be very dangerous.

If the problem is present without the motor running, the leak may be on the transom and can be coming from any number of places. Below is a list of the most probable causes.

(1) The drain plug housing. Remove the three screws, reseal with 5200, and retighten. The pressure on the housing, when removing a stuck or over-tightened drain plug, can cause it to come loose and leak.
(2) The thru-hull exhaust tips (if you have this option). If one is leaking, remove both, reseal, and retighten.
(3) The gimbal housing boot, which seals the drive shaft. See your dealer.
(4) The exhaust block off plate or the Y-pipe connection on the inside of the gimbal housing.

The easiest way to quick test the transom area is with the boat on a trailer. Trim the drive up, chock the trailer tires front and back and raise the trailer tongue up as high as possible. Install the drain plug, open the sun deck, and add water (using a garden hose) to just below the power steering ram on the transom. Do not allow the water level to touch the bottom of the starter. Any leaks in the transom will usually show up on the outside at this time. If a leak is observed, use a pencil to mark the area. After testing, remove the drain plug and allow the water to drain from the bilge, and lower the trailer to its normal position. Take the boat to your dealer and show him where the leak was observed.

If no water is leaking from the transom, the problem is likely with the motor and may not be present without the motor running. Your dealer can pressure-test the engine for leaks.
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When using a boat lift, what are the recommended lift points (distance fore and aft) to ensure proper balance and hull integrity?
The rear sling should be under the front motor mounts to support the engine weight. Locating the sling under the mounts will help ensure the bottom of the hull will stay straight over time. If the lift uses bunks instead of slings the rear ones should extend past the transom for proper hull support. The forward sling or bunk location can vary depending on boat weight and length. The forward lifting position will usually be 1 foot to 3 feet forward of the front of the windshield. The cables on the hoist should be adjusted so the boat will rest in the lift with the stern 3 to 6 inches lower than the bow. When the lift is adjusted properly, any rainwater, which may enter, will run to the transom. If the battery is charged and the automatic feature of the bilge pump is working properly any water entering the boat will be removed by the automatic pump. NOTE: The lifting cables, supporting slings or bunks should always be spaced wider apart than the beam of the boat.
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How do I install an extra battery in my boat?
Detailed instructions for installing an extra battery in your boat can be found on the
Guest Company web site.
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How do I align my steering wheel?
While cruising in a straight line mark the top of the steering wheel. A piece of string or small piece of tape will do. The difference in the position of the mark and the top of the steering wheel, when centered, is the ADJUSTMENT DISTANCE left or right. The wheel needs to move to be aligned with the drive unit. Release the steering cable from the helm under the dash by removing the pin or nut (depending on the age of your unit) from the helm end of the steering cable. Once the cable is disconnected from the helm, turn the wheel to the right to make the cable back out of the helm. Turn the wheel slowly and stop as soon as the cable stops backing out. Pull the cable out about 1/2" so that it is disconnected from the gears in the helm and will not move when you turn the wheel. Now turn the wheel the ADJUSTMENT DISTANCE left or right you need to straighten it. Then push the inner part of the steering cable back into the helm, hold a little pressure on it, and slowly turn the wheel to the left to re-engage the cable. Continue to turn the wheel to the left until the outside of the cable pulls itself back into the helm. Securely replace the pin or lock nut holding the cable to the helm. There are notches in the helm gears to allow adjustment of the outside diameter of the wheel to within one inch of the desired position. There also will be 2 to 3 inches of play in the cable that is normal and cannot be adjusted out. To check the adjustment, center the drive and put a heavy object against the drive on the driver's side of the lower unit so that it will not move past center. Turn the steering wheel to the left then back to the right until the drive pushes against the object. Your steering wheel should be close to straight; if it isn't, use the same procedure to readjust.
DANGER: FAILURE TO RECONNECT THE STEERING CABLE PROPERLY COULD RESULT IN INJURY OR DEATH.
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How do I change my radio to European settings to that it picks up even numbered channels instead of odd ones?
Make sure the stereo is off. Hold down the # 1 and # 5 position buttons and turn the stereo on. The radio will change each time you do this.
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How do I operate my dual battery system?
A dual battery system is an option on some Stingray models. With proper use, the addition of a second battery can be a reliable source of additional DC power.

Using the dual battery system
Battery Switch (1) and (2) (the two outside switches) should be in the on position when the boat is being used. The parallel start (middle switch) should normally stay in the OFF position. The parallel start (middle switch) should only be in the ON position to connect battery 1 and battery 2 if the cranking battery is weak and additional power is needed to start the engine. Once the engine has started, return the parallel start switch to the OFF position. If the parallel start switch is left in the ON position when using DC accessories both batteries will discharge at the same rate leaving you with no reserve power for starting your engine. Never turn bat switch 1 and 2 OFF with the engine running.

How the system is connected
Battery 1 should be connected to switch 1 and battery 2 should be connected to switch 2. The battery isolator has three connections. One goes to the alternator and one to each side of the parallel start (middle switch). This allows the engine, when running, to automatically charge each battery independently when the parallel start switch is in the off position. If parallel start switch is in the on position the batteries will still charge but the battery isolator can not regulate the power going to each battery. The engine and dash gauges are on battery 1 and all other 12 volt items are on battery 2 (refer to PDF files listed below). The radio is actually connected to both batteries. The memory wire is connected to the engine battery 1 and the power leads are connected to the accessory battery 2. The automatic bilge pump lead should always be connected to the positive side of battery 1 and never go through the battery on/off switch. The manual switch, located on the dash, for the bilge pump is powered by battery 2 from the accessory panel.

Parts included with dual battery system option #30 (without AC shore power)

  • 3 ea on/off battery disconnects with safety keys
  • 1 ea 50 amp circuit breaker
  • 1 ea battery isolator
  • 2 ea 20 amp circuit breakers (with shore power option 27 or 45 only)
  • Additional cables and brackets required for installation

Using the dual battery system with shore power option 27 or 45
When shore power is connected and the AC breakers are in the ON position the electric charger will keep the batteries charged automatically. Battery switches 1 and 2 can be in the ON or OFF position and the batteries will charge. If parallel start switch is in the ON position, the batteries will still charge but the battery charger can not regulate the power going to each battery. The battery charger is actually two chargers in one with an output connected to each battery.

The refrigerator will only operate on 12 DC which is connected to battery 2 and powered by the battery, engine alternator, or the battery charger when AC (shore power) is available. The stove is alcohol/AC electric, and the water heater will work when the engine is running or when the AC shore power is present.

Drawings for dual battery system
Dual Battery Switch | DC Wiring
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